Friday 11 September 2009

Mutton Rogan Josh

This is a classical Kashmiri Recipe. I have always been disappointed whenever I have had rogan josh in restaurants as the recipe is never same and taste can be as variable as a womans mood! However, the classical taste is from a Kashmiri kitchen. I am told that there are two ways of making a Rogan Josh, one the Kashmiri Pandit style and the other the Kashmiri muslim way. The difference is the use of onions in the muslim way. I was lucky that my sister was married to a Kashmiri and she picked up the recipes from her mother-in-law taking it even further. Being a gifted cook she has evolved her own recipes and the following is her take on the classical Rogan Josh (though the recipe is pretty classical Kashmiri Brahmin style). It is a highly flavoursome and my favourite comfort food with rice after a tiring day at work with some chilled beer!


iv>Kashmiri Rogan Josh

Lamb 1Kg - use chopped shoulder peices on the bone + Ribs chopped into squares on the bone
Oil (mustard oil if you have it)10 tbs depends on fat on the lamb
Asafoetida (a pungent spice easily available) - 1/2 tsp
cloves 6
Cinnamon - 1" x 2
Black Cardomom -2
Green Cardommoms - 6
Kashmiri Red Chilli powder - 2tps (alternative red paprika)
Ground Ginger powder (sounth (hindi)) 1.5 tsp
Fennel powder 2 tsp (fresh better)
Yoghurt 3-4 Tbs

  • Heat oil (not too hot) in the pressure cooker (or any heavy bottomed deep dish)
  • in hot oil add half asafoetida powder and as soon as it splutters add the lamb and salt (according to taste, though this dish is best slightly on the saltier side)
  • on lowish heat keep stirring the lamb till the moisture dries up and lamb turns slightly brownish (about 25 mins)
  • on low heat move the lamb pieces to the side to create a central well of oil.
  • In the oil first add the whole spices
  • when spices splutter add the chilli powder and after a minute once the oil has taken the colour stir all the lamb pieces in the oil and spices.
  • Add in the fennell and Dried ginger powder and the rest of the asafoetida.
  • Add plain yoghurt and stir in for about a minute
  • Add hot water - <200>
  • Cook for about 20-30 minutes till the mutton/lamb is tender.
To serve - plain boiled rice and a little bit of the concentrated gravy. mix it in with fingers till the rice takes a light red colour and then stuff your face. If its a bit mild use more gravy if strong add a wee bit more rice.
Booze - chilled beer nicely washes it down.

Lamb or Mutton Do-Pyaza Recipe

This is the way my mum made Mutton Do pyaaza, the most amazing taste. The recipe originates in the kitchens of the Jaunpur regalty. The ruling class of Jaunpur were well known for their decadence, indulgence and sophisticated tastes in art, food and generally good things in life.
The part of my family from Jaunpur were Hindu land owners from Jaunpur, but their cooks were Muslims claiming descendence from the great Khansamas of the mughals. One such cook was Ibrahim Mia who was responsible for passing on some of these recipes to our family. Their cooking skills were an art form and their eccentricities no less than geniuses and artists. I dedicate these recipes and blog to all such cooks who loved their trade and took it to dizzying heights.

Lamb (Gosth) Do-pyaza (do=2; pyaz= onions)

Lamb 1 Kg
Onion 1.25 Kg - Sliced circular, perpendicular to the vertical axis - could use a slicer, it is important for the taste
Garlic 1 large bulb (all the cloves)
Ginger 1" piece
whole Red chilli 15 large ones (dont worry it wont be too hot) - broken roughly into big peices
Cloves 10-12
Whole black peppers 1 tsp
Cinnamon 1" x 4
Green Cardomom 9 (smashed not dissected)
Black Cardomom 7 (smashed not opened up - Just bash this and the above once with something heavy without splitting it completely)
Bay leaves 4
Oil - 10 Tbs (or more) (some would use just ghee, though would increase the amount of staturated fat)
Ghee 2 Tbs

Heat oil in p. cooker or a deep dish (casserole will do nicely, something with a good heavy lid)
Add bay leaves to oil, when crackles add all onion, garlic & ginger.
Fry for 10 mins (medium heat, without it sticking to bottom) keeping covered Keep removing the lid every few minutes
Add lamb (keep frying, just keeping covered and a few peeks to give it a stir to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom)
add salt to taste -
Add all the whole spices and chillies broken up.
Fry for about 20-30 mins depending on how well its cooking it needs to look slightly brownish and the oil should start seperating (the water should have evaporated)
Add ghee
Add hot water (depending on the consistency of the gravy desired
Cook for 20-30 min depending on how long it takes for the lamb to get tender.
Garnish with coriander/crispy Fried brown onion slices (optional)

Best served with rice/chapattis
Booze: Some nice red wine complements it really well. Most indians will however consume it with whiskey diluted with chilled sparkling water!